In the northern mid-section of Italy is the charming area of Tuscany. Recently we, and several family members, visited there and stayed for several days.
In our medieval hilltop village, perched at 400 feet above sea level, we look down on heaven. Below is the serenity of a Tuscan landscape. Soft and green in its peacefulness, the land is a sea of wheat fields and olive groves, flowing without end.
In the distance are scattered hill towns, set high by the Etruscan builders in defense against hostile tribes. Rough stone walls and towers, of 6000 BC and before, support later Roman walls. And topping them are more "modern" walls of medieval and Renaissance times. Each town is marked by the staccato of a bell tower ("camponile") once serving as a lookout for warring foes, but now used to call the faithful to worship.
Most of these little towns have kept their medieval charm. Monsano, our village of 100 permanent residents, looks as it did in the 1200s, its narrow, crooked streets crowded by ancient stone walls, arced over by huge iron lanterns. A single bell tower rises above the town, its bells tolling the hours as they've done for centuries; and supporting the tower is a 12th century romanesque church, San Giovanni Baptiste (church of Saint John the Baptist) dedicated in 1171 AD. Among architectural historians, this church is known for its distinctive columns, with capitals (tops) inscribed with stories from the Old Testament. The builder/artist, Magister Bonamicus, after finishing his splendid work, carves his name into one capital in the year 1165 AD.
The footpath that Magister Bonamicus took from neighboring Volterra is still used by some hardy souls. We started out, but soon tired of beating back the wild roses that ensnared us. Returning to the church, we were greeted by an itinerant priest who had just ministered to the faithful. His warm "buon giorno" (good morning) and engaging smile briefly enticed me into converting to Catholicism and staying forever in our tiny village.
A Monsano morning is filled with "buon giornos," as the native folk begin their day. Women fill their watering cans from a fountain in the square. Vespas and motorbikes arrive, sounding on approach like so many "worker bees" intent on finding the most beautiful flower. The vegetable man arrives, too, loudly hawking his wares; and we rush to buy sweet red tomatoes picked that morning. Enrico poses for our camera while weighing the tomatoes on an ancient scale. To our "how much do they cost?" (quanto costa?) he replies in Italian "200 lira," or about $1. To which we say "bene ... good!"
Of interest are our day trips to Florence, Fiesole, San Gimigiano, Volterra and the Island of Elba (Napolean's prison for a time). Perhaps most thrilling is a visit to Sienna. This walled medieval town hosts an ancient horse race within its town square. Riders from the various provinces of Italy ("conterada") ride bareback, madly vying for the prize of the banner. "Il Palio." As mobs jam the square, cadres of provincial patriots march through the narrow streets singing wildly. Surely the charged atmosphere rivals that of "the running of the bulls" in Spain!
Then back to the quiet life of Monsano. We only regret that we can't speak with the villagers, except to say "good morning" and "goodbye." How good it would be to really talk with them. We want to understand what they feel about things. We want to be friends.
Finally, it is time to leave this gentle place. We say goodbye, and I think to myself, "I could live here. Why not? Maybe ... some day."
Susan Paslov is a retired attorney who teaches English as a Second Language. She is married, with three children and one and one-half grandchildren.
